Day 1
After an early breakfast we got picked up by our guide and met the rest of our companions on the trip. The first stop of the day was Semenggoh Nature Reserve to hopefully see some orang-utans. The reserve has been rehabilitating orphan orang-utans for the last 20 years and returning them to the wild, so the surrounding jungle now holds a thriving orang-utan population. On the day that we visited we were lucky enough to see a big male swing in from the jungle looking for a free lunch.
After visiting the nature reserve, we made a brief stop in the town of Serian to have a look around the local market and to sample some of the local foods. The meat satay with peanut sauce and rice, topped off with battered bananas was excellent and set us up nicely for the shopping trip to buy food and gifts for our Iban hosts. The gifts consisted of biscuits, hot chocolate mix and crisps that could be shared out amongst the inhabitants of the longhouse. With the shopping safely loaded in our now slightly squashed car, we continued on our way to the Skrang River to meet our Iban guide and transfer to a boat that would takes us to the longhouse. Despite being told repeatedly by our guide that we were now in the dry season and that we would be very unlucky to encounter rain, the heavens opened and the last part of our road journey was through heavy rain.
Arriving at the river we were introduced to Entalai, our host and interpreter for the next 3 days, unloaded the car and waited to get on board the very narrow and unstable looking boat. Mercifully the rain had stopped, but to say that we got slightly wet during the boat journey would be something of an understatement. Due to the lack of rain (it really is the dry season!) the river was very low, so we had to race towards area of shallow water at full speed and then the crew either paddled madly to get us over or had to get out and push. Nevertheless the boat was controlled with amazing skill by the boatmen and we arrived safely but damp at Lalang longhouse.
Iban longhouses were traditionally made of wood, but due to the shortage through commercial logging, many have been rebuilt using concrete. Fortunately (for us at least) Lalang still remains entirely made of wood. The longhouse itself is separated into about twenty apartments (approx 100 people live in Lalang) with the chief and his closest family living in the centre. All of the rooms then lead on to a communal area where people socialise and work. People who stay on the longhouse for longer than a few days are invited to stay in their host’s apartment, but as there were six of us our home was in the communal area (mattresses and mosquito nets provided). One of the surprises that we encountered on entering the house was that there were no children staying, apparently all of them were away at school; the 1-2hr boat journey being too far for them to travel every day.
As the Iban people were the original headhunting tribe of Borneo, it was interesting to see three human skulls hanging outside the chief’s apartment. Entalai informed us that although the chief wouldn’t say whether he had actually taken part in any headhunting himself, the skulls on display were from a much earlier time. The Malaysian government’s line is that headhunting ended many years ago, but Entalai informed us that it only really ended in about the mid 60s with the last of the Asian wars.
Our first meal on the longhouse was eaten in Entalai’s apartment and was accompanied by a tasting session of rice wines. Having already been warned about drinking too much rice wine by our guide we all took it relatively easy, knowing that we had an early morning jungle trek the next day. Finishing dinner and returning to the communal area, we were treated to a traditional dance performed by the residents. The two male dancers seemed relatively keen, but the two women looked like they would rather be anywhere than dancing in front of us! We were then invited to join in the dance. While my whoops and jumps got a smile out of my Iban dance instructor, we couldn’t help but think that the whole thing was put on because they believed that that was what we wanted to see. A brief display of local crafts followed the dancing where I bought a small blowpipe and we both bought some rattan mats. So far the legendary friendliness and hospitality was, other than Entalai, in short supply.
Oh well, early start tomorrow so time for bed!
Day 2
We quickly found out that sleeping late in a Longhouse is impossible. The many cockerels signalled morning at a ridiculous hour and the working day starts soon after. After a breakfast of banana pancakes and fruit we got ready for our jungle trek. First we were shown the pepper plantations (Sarawak is one of the world’s largest pepper exporters) and then, as we climbed higher up the surrounding hills, we passed many rubber trees and wild pineapple plants. As it was a very warm day and the climb was quite steep, it was with some relief when we headed down towards the river.
Following the river for a short distance we arrived at a swimming area, which was also to be our stop for lunch. Entalai and two others quickly had a fire going and set about wrapping fish, chicken, rice and edible ferns in palm leaves and then placing them in bamboo tubes that would be cooked on the fire. I had a go at folding the packets of rice, but it has to be noted that when I handed it to Entalai, he unfolded it and did it again. So far my chances of being welcomed into the tribe look slim! After failing at the rice folding I was given the task of filling all of the stuffed bamboo tubes with water and then handing them to the cook; this I did with great success!
Before too long we were dining on an extremely tasty meal cooked entirely in bamboo, with our plates made of folded leaves and our cutlery and cups from bamboo. They had even brewed tea and coffee in the tubes. The meal was one of the best experiences we have had, and our longhouse trip was definitely looking up! With no dishes to wash, we packed up quickly and followed the river back to the longhouse. The onset of rain put a slight damper on the journey, but by the time we arrived back it had dried up and blue skies were again visible.
The rest of the day was spent swimming in the river eating another very nice meal with Entalai and consuming quite a large amount of rice wine. The inhabitants of the longhouse did appear to be getting more used to our presence and we were able to watch pepper being sorted and dried, rattan mats being weaved and fishing nets being repaired. Obviously a lack of English makes communication difficult, but from the previous nights craft sale we had encountered more than a few people who did speak English reasonably well. Unfortunately those people never seemed to be around when you wanted them or interested in talking, and so many of the inhabitants remained either shy or disinterested in our being there. Perhaps it was too much to expect to be welcomed with open arms. It could be said that if the roles were reversed and six strangers turned up in most western homes they sadly might be sure of a lesser welcome. It is worth saying; however that Lalang longhouse and Entalai have been having visitors stay for over 10 years, so our being there could hardly be described as a shock. Perhaps six people is too many? People have been known to stay for a lot longer, in which case they would stay in the apartments and help the Iban work, therefore integrating more with the people.
Day 3
Another early start and our final day in the longhouse. We certainly will not be missing the cockerels! After breakfast we went another short jungle trek to have a better look at rubber being collected. Debs foot was still sore from our last hospital visit, so decided that she would give the trek a miss. The trek took us through the rubber plantations and up until we reached a viewpoint over the rolling hills of the Sarawak countryside. The climb served a double purpose, as Entalai had come up here to try and get reception on his mobile phone! Having to walk for an hour to be able to make a phone call, recalled the memories of my first mobile phone back home!
Returning to the longhouse we had some fun shooting my mini blowpipe and then having a go with Entalai’s real one. After a final swim in the river it was time to pack our gear, wave goodbye to our hosts and with a certain amount of trepidation get back in the boat for the journey down river. The boat was again piloted with consummate skill and the journey turned out to be something of an anticlimax. It would appear that travelling down river when the water is low is considerably easier than the other way round. Safely back on dry land we waved goodbye to Entalai, got back in the car and set off on the long return journey to Kuching.
We were really glad we stayed on a longhouse and overall the experience has been a good one, which we will always remember. Whether or not the stay should be longer would really be up to the individual; for us it was long enough and while we have no major travel plans, we do have at least some time constraints. What we can definitely say is that we got to stay on a real, living, breathing, working longhouse, which was after all our original hope.
Next: Back to Kuching
After visiting the nature reserve, we made a brief stop in the town of Serian to have a look around the local market and to sample some of the local foods. The meat satay with peanut sauce and rice, topped off with battered bananas was excellent and set us up nicely for the shopping trip to buy food and gifts for our Iban hosts. The gifts consisted of biscuits, hot chocolate mix and crisps that could be shared out amongst the inhabitants of the longhouse. With the shopping safely loaded in our now slightly squashed car, we continued on our way to the Skrang River to meet our Iban guide and transfer to a boat that would takes us to the longhouse. Despite being told repeatedly by our guide that we were now in the dry season and that we would be very unlucky to encounter rain, the heavens opened and the last part of our road journey was through heavy rain.
Arriving at the river we were introduced to Entalai, our host and interpreter for the next 3 days, unloaded the car and waited to get on board the very narrow and unstable looking boat. Mercifully the rain had stopped, but to say that we got slightly wet during the boat journey would be something of an understatement. Due to the lack of rain (it really is the dry season!) the river was very low, so we had to race towards area of shallow water at full speed and then the crew either paddled madly to get us over or had to get out and push. Nevertheless the boat was controlled with amazing skill by the boatmen and we arrived safely but damp at Lalang longhouse.
Iban longhouses were traditionally made of wood, but due to the shortage through commercial logging, many have been rebuilt using concrete. Fortunately (for us at least) Lalang still remains entirely made of wood. The longhouse itself is separated into about twenty apartments (approx 100 people live in Lalang) with the chief and his closest family living in the centre. All of the rooms then lead on to a communal area where people socialise and work. People who stay on the longhouse for longer than a few days are invited to stay in their host’s apartment, but as there were six of us our home was in the communal area (mattresses and mosquito nets provided). One of the surprises that we encountered on entering the house was that there were no children staying, apparently all of them were away at school; the 1-2hr boat journey being too far for them to travel every day.
As the Iban people were the original headhunting tribe of Borneo, it was interesting to see three human skulls hanging outside the chief’s apartment. Entalai informed us that although the chief wouldn’t say whether he had actually taken part in any headhunting himself, the skulls on display were from a much earlier time. The Malaysian government’s line is that headhunting ended many years ago, but Entalai informed us that it only really ended in about the mid 60s with the last of the Asian wars.
Our first meal on the longhouse was eaten in Entalai’s apartment and was accompanied by a tasting session of rice wines. Having already been warned about drinking too much rice wine by our guide we all took it relatively easy, knowing that we had an early morning jungle trek the next day. Finishing dinner and returning to the communal area, we were treated to a traditional dance performed by the residents. The two male dancers seemed relatively keen, but the two women looked like they would rather be anywhere than dancing in front of us! We were then invited to join in the dance. While my whoops and jumps got a smile out of my Iban dance instructor, we couldn’t help but think that the whole thing was put on because they believed that that was what we wanted to see. A brief display of local crafts followed the dancing where I bought a small blowpipe and we both bought some rattan mats. So far the legendary friendliness and hospitality was, other than Entalai, in short supply.
Oh well, early start tomorrow so time for bed!
Day 2
We quickly found out that sleeping late in a Longhouse is impossible. The many cockerels signalled morning at a ridiculous hour and the working day starts soon after. After a breakfast of banana pancakes and fruit we got ready for our jungle trek. First we were shown the pepper plantations (Sarawak is one of the world’s largest pepper exporters) and then, as we climbed higher up the surrounding hills, we passed many rubber trees and wild pineapple plants. As it was a very warm day and the climb was quite steep, it was with some relief when we headed down towards the river.
Following the river for a short distance we arrived at a swimming area, which was also to be our stop for lunch. Entalai and two others quickly had a fire going and set about wrapping fish, chicken, rice and edible ferns in palm leaves and then placing them in bamboo tubes that would be cooked on the fire. I had a go at folding the packets of rice, but it has to be noted that when I handed it to Entalai, he unfolded it and did it again. So far my chances of being welcomed into the tribe look slim! After failing at the rice folding I was given the task of filling all of the stuffed bamboo tubes with water and then handing them to the cook; this I did with great success!
Before too long we were dining on an extremely tasty meal cooked entirely in bamboo, with our plates made of folded leaves and our cutlery and cups from bamboo. They had even brewed tea and coffee in the tubes. The meal was one of the best experiences we have had, and our longhouse trip was definitely looking up! With no dishes to wash, we packed up quickly and followed the river back to the longhouse. The onset of rain put a slight damper on the journey, but by the time we arrived back it had dried up and blue skies were again visible.
The rest of the day was spent swimming in the river eating another very nice meal with Entalai and consuming quite a large amount of rice wine. The inhabitants of the longhouse did appear to be getting more used to our presence and we were able to watch pepper being sorted and dried, rattan mats being weaved and fishing nets being repaired. Obviously a lack of English makes communication difficult, but from the previous nights craft sale we had encountered more than a few people who did speak English reasonably well. Unfortunately those people never seemed to be around when you wanted them or interested in talking, and so many of the inhabitants remained either shy or disinterested in our being there. Perhaps it was too much to expect to be welcomed with open arms. It could be said that if the roles were reversed and six strangers turned up in most western homes they sadly might be sure of a lesser welcome. It is worth saying; however that Lalang longhouse and Entalai have been having visitors stay for over 10 years, so our being there could hardly be described as a shock. Perhaps six people is too many? People have been known to stay for a lot longer, in which case they would stay in the apartments and help the Iban work, therefore integrating more with the people.
Day 3
Another early start and our final day in the longhouse. We certainly will not be missing the cockerels! After breakfast we went another short jungle trek to have a better look at rubber being collected. Debs foot was still sore from our last hospital visit, so decided that she would give the trek a miss. The trek took us through the rubber plantations and up until we reached a viewpoint over the rolling hills of the Sarawak countryside. The climb served a double purpose, as Entalai had come up here to try and get reception on his mobile phone! Having to walk for an hour to be able to make a phone call, recalled the memories of my first mobile phone back home!
Returning to the longhouse we had some fun shooting my mini blowpipe and then having a go with Entalai’s real one. After a final swim in the river it was time to pack our gear, wave goodbye to our hosts and with a certain amount of trepidation get back in the boat for the journey down river. The boat was again piloted with consummate skill and the journey turned out to be something of an anticlimax. It would appear that travelling down river when the water is low is considerably easier than the other way round. Safely back on dry land we waved goodbye to Entalai, got back in the car and set off on the long return journey to Kuching.
We were really glad we stayed on a longhouse and overall the experience has been a good one, which we will always remember. Whether or not the stay should be longer would really be up to the individual; for us it was long enough and while we have no major travel plans, we do have at least some time constraints. What we can definitely say is that we got to stay on a real, living, breathing, working longhouse, which was after all our original hope.
Next: Back to Kuching
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