Taking a bus and then a boat from Kuching we arrived at Bako, Sarawak’s oldest national park. The national park has been in existence since 1957 and occupies an area of only 27sq km. Due to its comparatively small size it is probably the best place to see wildlife in Sarawak.
After registering at the park’s main office, we checked into what turned out to be a very large bungalow carefully avoiding any incidents with the resident macaques. The macaques hang around the camp looking for food or anyone stupid enough to leave a door or window open. The park rangers seem to look upon them as a tourist attraction and enormous pain at the same time. As we arrived in good time, and having read that the early evening is a good time to see proboscis monkeys, we set off on a short trek to try and spot some wildlife. The trail that we initially followed rather came to an end as it disappeared into the mangrove forest, so turning around we headed back towards the camp, encountering a beautiful Rofous Backed Kingfisher on the way. It was on our return that we had our first encounter with the proboscis monkeys. Standing as quietly as possible on hearing the crash of vegetation, we caught the odd glimpse and heard the strange honking sound of male proboscis monkeys. After standing and watching for a while it became apparent that we weren’t going to get a better view, so happy with our brief encounter we returned to camp.
While walking on the beach to watch the sunset we bumped into a couple from the longhouse trip who were also staying in the park. Later that evening we joined them for dinner and then organised to go on a short night safari. The night safari started early for Debs when she came face to face with a Bornean bearded pig (Bako’s largest mammal) on the way to our room to get ready! During the safari our guide did his best to point things out, but the animals weren’t really playing along. We did see a large stick insect, several spiders and a rather frightening looking centipede hunting a gecko, but the nocturnal mammals remained elusive. As we headed back to the camp the guide took us to see the fireflies near the harbour and what appears to be the camp’s resident snake, a Wagler’s pit viper. I say ‘resident’, because in the next few days it was always to be found sitting on the same branch, in the same tree near the camp.
The next day we decided that we would attempt the ‘Big Loop’, a circuit made by linking many of the shorter trails. The loop was supposed to take about 7 hours, but we had been informed by several people that they had done it in 5-6 hours, without rushing. Loaded up with as much water as we could carry and some snacks for the journey we set off, our first destination being Tajor waterfall some 3km from the camp. The waterfall is not overly impressive but there is a nice, although somewhat murky, swimming area. However, the large amounts of pitcher plants hanging from the trees on either side of the main trail were far more impressive. Along the course of the trail we saw three different kinds of pitcher plant; Nepenthes Rafflesiana, Nepenthes Gracilis and Nepenthes Ampullaria.
It was from the waterfall that the walk became less fun. The trail started to climb steeply and the temperature and humidity rose dramatically. We would like to say that we enjoyed the remainder of the trail, but partly due to Debs’ foot not being fully recovered and an eventual lack of water, we would be lying. In all honesty there is nothing along the big loop that you can’t see on the other shorter trails (apart from one type of pitcher plant) and unless you are feeling particularly masochistic there is no real point. Incidentally it took us all of the 7 hours to complete with very few stops, so we can only assume that the people we spoke to either ran all the way or missed some off! When we eventually made it back we were too tired and hot to do anything else, so we had an early evening meal and a very early night.
Our third day at Bako was spent at a much more leisurely pace. I had a short trek up to a nearby viewpoint encountering a few, very well camouflaged, lizards along the trail. Debs meanwhile spent most of the day recovering from the excesses of the day before. Later that afternoon we walked to the mangrove forest to try and see some proboscis monkeys. Staying as quiet as possible (something that Asians don’t seem to understand) we were fortunate enough to see several as they came out of the jungle to feed. The monkeys remain very wary of humans and at the slightest noise will disappear. For the main part they stayed just out of camera range and it was more by luck, that we got any pictures at all. It was a great experience seeing these rare creatures in the wild and one that we will never forget.
True to his word, our boatman remembered to pick us up on the last day and ferried us back to the mainland. Our stay at Bako was great; the trails are well marked, the rain forest is beautiful and you have a very real chance of seeing animals. The only slight downers on the experience are that the restaurant while not expensive is terrible; they cook once a day and then expect it to stay hot for the remainder of the time and water is stupidly expensive.
The minibus took us back to Kuching where we got on another bus bound for the airport. Our time in Borneo had come to an end and it was time to return to Kuala Lumpur, before heading onwards to Indonesia.
Next: A return to KL
After registering at the park’s main office, we checked into what turned out to be a very large bungalow carefully avoiding any incidents with the resident macaques. The macaques hang around the camp looking for food or anyone stupid enough to leave a door or window open. The park rangers seem to look upon them as a tourist attraction and enormous pain at the same time. As we arrived in good time, and having read that the early evening is a good time to see proboscis monkeys, we set off on a short trek to try and spot some wildlife. The trail that we initially followed rather came to an end as it disappeared into the mangrove forest, so turning around we headed back towards the camp, encountering a beautiful Rofous Backed Kingfisher on the way. It was on our return that we had our first encounter with the proboscis monkeys. Standing as quietly as possible on hearing the crash of vegetation, we caught the odd glimpse and heard the strange honking sound of male proboscis monkeys. After standing and watching for a while it became apparent that we weren’t going to get a better view, so happy with our brief encounter we returned to camp.
While walking on the beach to watch the sunset we bumped into a couple from the longhouse trip who were also staying in the park. Later that evening we joined them for dinner and then organised to go on a short night safari. The night safari started early for Debs when she came face to face with a Bornean bearded pig (Bako’s largest mammal) on the way to our room to get ready! During the safari our guide did his best to point things out, but the animals weren’t really playing along. We did see a large stick insect, several spiders and a rather frightening looking centipede hunting a gecko, but the nocturnal mammals remained elusive. As we headed back to the camp the guide took us to see the fireflies near the harbour and what appears to be the camp’s resident snake, a Wagler’s pit viper. I say ‘resident’, because in the next few days it was always to be found sitting on the same branch, in the same tree near the camp.
The next day we decided that we would attempt the ‘Big Loop’, a circuit made by linking many of the shorter trails. The loop was supposed to take about 7 hours, but we had been informed by several people that they had done it in 5-6 hours, without rushing. Loaded up with as much water as we could carry and some snacks for the journey we set off, our first destination being Tajor waterfall some 3km from the camp. The waterfall is not overly impressive but there is a nice, although somewhat murky, swimming area. However, the large amounts of pitcher plants hanging from the trees on either side of the main trail were far more impressive. Along the course of the trail we saw three different kinds of pitcher plant; Nepenthes Rafflesiana, Nepenthes Gracilis and Nepenthes Ampullaria.
It was from the waterfall that the walk became less fun. The trail started to climb steeply and the temperature and humidity rose dramatically. We would like to say that we enjoyed the remainder of the trail, but partly due to Debs’ foot not being fully recovered and an eventual lack of water, we would be lying. In all honesty there is nothing along the big loop that you can’t see on the other shorter trails (apart from one type of pitcher plant) and unless you are feeling particularly masochistic there is no real point. Incidentally it took us all of the 7 hours to complete with very few stops, so we can only assume that the people we spoke to either ran all the way or missed some off! When we eventually made it back we were too tired and hot to do anything else, so we had an early evening meal and a very early night.
Our third day at Bako was spent at a much more leisurely pace. I had a short trek up to a nearby viewpoint encountering a few, very well camouflaged, lizards along the trail. Debs meanwhile spent most of the day recovering from the excesses of the day before. Later that afternoon we walked to the mangrove forest to try and see some proboscis monkeys. Staying as quiet as possible (something that Asians don’t seem to understand) we were fortunate enough to see several as they came out of the jungle to feed. The monkeys remain very wary of humans and at the slightest noise will disappear. For the main part they stayed just out of camera range and it was more by luck, that we got any pictures at all. It was a great experience seeing these rare creatures in the wild and one that we will never forget.
True to his word, our boatman remembered to pick us up on the last day and ferried us back to the mainland. Our stay at Bako was great; the trails are well marked, the rain forest is beautiful and you have a very real chance of seeing animals. The only slight downers on the experience are that the restaurant while not expensive is terrible; they cook once a day and then expect it to stay hot for the remainder of the time and water is stupidly expensive.
The minibus took us back to Kuching where we got on another bus bound for the airport. Our time in Borneo had come to an end and it was time to return to Kuala Lumpur, before heading onwards to Indonesia.
Next: A return to KL
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