Tuesday 13 February 2007

Sapporo Snow Festival & back to Tokyo

Would you believe it, you wait for ages for an updated Blog & then 2 come along in quick succession!

Having waved goodbye to Pippa, we headed to the train station to catch the Shinkansen to Sapporo. Timing our train departure so that we encountered the Tokyo rush hour laden down with big bags, was certainly not our finest piece of planning. It was however an experience we won't forget in a hurry. Fortunately when we got to the Shinkansen section of Tokyo station things calmed down a little! This was my first experience of a truly fast and efficient train service. The countryside rockets by and the trains leave and arrive at the times they are supposed to. They are also extremely clean and the seats rotate so you just turn them around when the train heads in the opposite direction!

10 hours and 3 trains later, we arrived at our destination and headed for our hotel. Having read that there had been concern about the lack of snow this year, it was quite amazing to see more snow than we had in our lives. England would have totally ground to a halt!

After a pleasant sleep in a nice hotel room, with free wireless Internet (This has certainly helped with the update of the Blog) we headed out to see the sculptures. I will not go into too much description here, as there really are too many to describe. To say that some of them were quite staggering in scale, is something of an understatement. The sculpture called 'The Antarctic' took 3000 people, 1 month to create! Fortunately we have managed to get some photos up so give them a look.

The snow festival attracts people from all over the world, so you would think that they would produce at least one programme in English. Alas though, this is Japan and they seem to work a little differently. Trying to find out what was happening and where, was a little hit and miss to say the least. We did manage to catch the qualifying for the freestyle Snow boarding (really quite dull) and several bizarre Song & Dance numbers.

As we had planned to be at the festival for the closing ceremony, I would like to tell you that it was amazing, but if it actually happened, we didn't see it! Most people seemed to just pack up and go home. In their defence though, it was the coldest day and it had been snowing hard all day.

Away from the Festival, we found Sapporo to be a very pleasant city. Unlike many other Japanese cities, navigation is simple! The whole place is built on a grid network and everything was within walking distance of our hotel. We had a good time looking around the super heated Shopping Malls, stocking up on the latest J-POP and marvelling at the sheer amount of Anime(comic books) available.

If we got tired of the shopping, or cold from the snow there was always a nice warm Bar/Izakaya available to have a rest in. The meal we had at the Sapporo Bier Garten deserves special mention. You basically order a plate of meat & vegetables and then cook it on a kind of griddle that is mounted in the table. You then wash this down with plenty of big beers!

For anyone wondering what happens to the sculptures after the snow festival ends, they had already moved diggers & excavators in to dismantle them by the morning. Clearly they don't want them hanging around for ages making the place look untidy!

We had originally planned to go to Dewansan-zen to climb a volcano. However, we had a change of heart and instead returned to Tokyo to spend a few more days looking around. Using a hostel in Asakusa as our base, we headed back to Akihabara so I could have a longer look at all the gadgets. This ended up with Debs buying herself a Nintendo DS lite (So much fun that 1 day later I bought one as well, and have been losing against her at Mario minigames ever since: she is frighteningly good!). Being as it was Valentine's day we had a meal at a nearby Izakaya and rather a lot of beers.

The next day we headed back to Harajuku to have another look around Takeshita street. As it was a weekday, the shops were generally quieter than on our last visit, so we were able to have a better look around. Debs bought herself a new bag and I managed to find some 'Nightmare before Christmas' Chopsticks! The whole Jack Skellington thing has become a bit of an obsession with me, since I have been in Japan. I am also quite keen on Doraemon (a blue robot cat) key fob & phone charm characters. They have different ones relating to where you are in Japan. Debs on the other hand has gone the Hello Kitty route (We even managed to find one of Hello Kitty wearing the 'Harajuku girls' Gothic clothing).

From Harajuku, we headed back to Shibuya for another quick look around before heading back to the hostel for a rest. As we were back in Tokyo again, it would have been rude not to get in touch with Pippa. So we arranged to meet her for food & drinks. It was just a shame she was still hungover from the night before! Still, we had a good evening dining in an Italian restaurant and having a few drinks in a Sumo Bar. Tired from work and lack of sleep, Pippa headed home and we went on to the hostel's bar for a night cap or two. This was probably not the best idea that we have ever had, as we had planned to go to Hakone early the next day to try and see Mt Fuji. We did still go, just not quite as early as we had planned.
Hakone is a really pleasant area of national parkland about 90km from Tokyo and one of the best places to see Mt Fuji. On the day we chose to visit, we were fortunate enough to have a really good view of the 'Shy mountain'.
Starting from Odawara we took the train to Gora, where we got on the Sounzan cable car (really a funicular railway) to Sounzan. From here we transferred to the Hakone ropeway (really a cable car). Unfortunately we couldn't travel all the way along the cable car due to maintenance work. We did however get a great view of Mt Fuji, although a slightly smelly one as we passed over a sulphur mine. Still suffering from the beer the night before, I declined the offer to eat an egg cooked in sulphur! Arriving in Owakudani we took the shuttle bus to Togendai. Here we boarded a sightseeing boat for the 20min cruise through Lake Ashi to Hakonemachi. We then had a pleasant stroll through a several hundred year old, Cedar tree lined walkway. These trees were planted along the old Tokaido street as protection against the elements during the start of the Edo period (1618).
With the light starting to fade, we stopped for a last look at Mt Fuji across Lake Ashi and then caught the bus back to Hakone Yumoto station. A short train ride back to Odawara and the Shinkansen was waiting to whisk us back to Tokyo. Never having been much of a train spotter, I have to say that the speed of the trains through the stations is quite staggering, especially as you get no warning of one approaching. Arriving back in Tokyo, it was time to pack ready for the journey to Kyoto in the morning.
Next blog Kyoto and beyond

Friday 9 February 2007

Tokyo & Beyond

Hi all

We made it to Japan OK, with no delays & managed to negotiate our way to Pippa's place in Minawi Kashiwa (Chiba prefecture, just outside Tokyo) . We then had a relatively quiet day sleeping, until Pippa got home at about 8:30pm. Possibly a bit Jet lagged! In fact the only real thing of note was that i had an automated toilet door incident, when i couldn't actually get the door closed and the light on at the same time.

Much to Pippa's amusement, we set about going to Shinjuku on our first day. Have to confess, i had not done much research, beyond knowing that it was a good place to buy a camera lens (On this i failed miserably). Shinjuku Train station is the Worlds Busiest & has 60 exits! The fact that we managed to come out of the right one was somewhat miraculous. Having failed on the Camera lens, we headed to the Metropolitan Govt building, for a panoramic view of the city from the 45Th floor observation deck. Having never really been to anywhere truly high rise, this was quite exciting for me (sad???). Unfortunately due to smog and cloud we weren't blessed with a view of Mt Fuji. From here we visited Kumanu Shrine, for a little bit of peace in the city.

Back at the station we struggled to find street level, paying several visits to a bus stop with no exit, then again miraculously finding the right train line! (see above 'WORLDS BUSIEST STATION!!!!').

Still suffering from the time difference (A plus point of overlanding, you don't notice the time difference!) we headed back to Pippa's for a sleep until 8pm, when we had arranged to meet her for a drink at the Hub bar in Kashiwa. From here we went to an Izakaya restaurant (Sort of Japanese Tapas), until 1am when we caught the last train back to Minawi Kashiwa.

Friday was spent going to 'Disney Sea' resort ( a water and world themed Disneyland). We had lot of laughs, but the park was very much aimed at a younger audience. The funniest thing about going to Disney in Japan however, is just how obsessed with it they are. It was a rare sight to spot anyone Japanese not wearing a stupid Disney themed hat or mouse ears. They continued this practice away from the park as well!!

Pippa managed to wangle some time off work, so we spent the rest of our time in Tokyo with our own tour guide. This is especially handy when you are trying to negotiate the Tokyo subway system.

Starting in Ueno we visited the market in Ameyoko plaza, then headed for Asakusa and the Sensoji temple (the largest in Tokyo). Where i received a very good fortune! Pippa's meanwhile was dreadful and Debs just didn't like hers. So they both tied them to the nearest shrine to banish the bad luck. Next we went to Akihabara 'Electric City'. If you cant get an electrical item or gadget here you cant get it anywhere ( except you cant because the shops all appear to be sold out!). The shops in this part of the city obviously know their target audience to be mainly young men, as you are bombarded by gadgets, Anime & porn!!!

Planning a long night of Karaoke & Beer we headed back for a rest. The Karaoke didn't happen this time, but i did get to see England return to winning ways and beat Scotland convincingly in the Rugby.

Being as it was Sunday, there is only one thing to do in Tokyo and that is to go to Harajuku and see the Gothic 'Harajuku girls' and watch the bands play around Yoyogi park. This is something that i have wanted to see for ages & it certainly lived up to my expectations. The girls outfits are out of this world, Meiji Jingu temple is a beautiful bit of peace in a busy city & the performers in and around the park are amazing. Plus points have to be the dancing Rock 'n' rollers, drummers in the park, a crazy dancing artist and Gabez (a group of Samurai dancers). Will get some photos up so you can have some idea. We finished off a great day by going to Shibuya, home of the worlds busiest pedestrian crossing (heaven knows how it works, but it does!) and enormous video screens playing j-pop videos.

Seeking a somewhat quieter day, we travelled to Nikko 128km north of Tokyo, to visit the Tosho-gu shrine complex (Home of the original "hear no evil, See no evil, speak no evil" monkey carving). The shrine itself is a stunningly elaborate building, covered in carvings, with heavy use of colour. This is unique in Japan as temples & shrines are generally very restrained affairs . Quite tired from walking around the site we had an excellent meal in Hippari Dako (Many thanks, to our friendly host. Anyone visiting can spot our trip card stuck to the ceiling), before heading back to Tokyo.

If you read this Pippa, do you know how many yellow cars there are in Sapporo? We are covered in bruises!

Many thanks for letting us stay Pippa! We had a great time. Hope we didn't put you out too much. Will see you in England soon?

Next entry 'Sapporo snow festival'