Westport:

Breaking our journey up as we headed up the west coast, we made a stop in Punakaiki to hopefully watch the blowhole and have a look at the Pancake Rocks. As we made the journey to Punakaiki rather quicker than we had planned, we were too early to see the blowhole in action as it was still low tide. Instead of waiting for hours for high tide we had a walk along the cliff edge to get a better look at the Pancake Rocks. The rocks themselves are a collection of sea stacks and parts of the cliff face that appear to be made up of multiple thin layers. The thin layers are created by a process called stylobedding, whereby the pressure of overlying sediment creates alternating durable and weaker bands. The processes of weathering and uplifting have accentuated this effect creating the wonderfully layered rocks. Whatever the process they certainly look very impressive!
From the rocks we continued down the road a short way and stopped for a walk along the beach, before continuing on to Cape Foulwind (named by Captain Cook in 1770) just south of Westport. Our main reason for stopping at Cape Foulwind, apart to have a laugh at the name was to visit the Tauranga Bay Seal Colony. It was really good to see the seal pups at play on the rocks and to see once again more of New Zealand’s dramatic coastline.
After finding a camper park for the night we headed into what the Rough Guide describes as New Zealand’s most dispiriting town. Westport describes itself as ‘New Zealand the way it was’. Either way it certainly couldn’t be described as New Zealand’s most exciting town! We should mention however that the people we met were all really friendly and later that evening we witnessed probably the best sunset we have yet seen on our travels.
Our trip up the west coast was over and it was time to head across country to Kaikoura.

Greymouth:

The area towards the north western part of the South Island is famous for its Greenstone (Jade), so after a stop at Lake Mahinapua to look at yet another beautiful reflection we made a brief stop in Hokitika. Hokitika is a big centre for Greenstone carving, although as we found out Sunday is not the best time to visit. Giving up on the greenstone shops we had the somewhat surreal experience of having a look around the National Kiwi Centre and wool shop! The title ‘National’ implies a professional setup, but what you get is a rather charming if somewhat homemade looking attraction that includes tropical fish tanks, an enormous eel tank, a very tatty pond area and eventually the Kiwi enclosures. It was the first Kiwi I had seen and nothing can prepare you for just how peculiar looking they are. The way they move is unlike any other bird I have ever encountered.
Back on the road we continued our journey to Greymouth which turned out to be, apart from Jade Country Greenstone, just as closed as Hokitika! After having a look round the quite interesting Jade Country exhibition we went to book a black water rafting and caving trip. Unfortunately the Dragon Cave Rafting office was closed but we managed to get hold of them on the phone and booked on for the next day.
Dragon Cave Rafting advertises the trip as the best black water rafting experience you will ever have. Not having done any black water rafting before, that would be hard for me to judge, but the whole thing didn’t start terribly well when we found out we were the only ones on the tour. This would have been fine but the guy on the phone had made a big thing about whether he could fit us in! After getting kitted out in lots of layers of thermals and wetsuits we set off for the cave, with two guides who had clearly modelled themselves on Cannon & Ball (replace this with any bad comedy double act you can think of). It was just as well we were wearing lots of thick layers or our sides would have surely split at their collective jokes! Personally I quite enjoyed the whole trip, but Debs is really not keen on dark caves, bats and not being able to see through misted glasses. When the main guide stopped trying to be funny, he was quite informative and came across as a nice guy; it was just a shame that he felt the need to be such an idiot (actual choice of word changed for any youngsters reading). When we made it back out of the cave, I had a go on a natural rock waterslide and we then headed back to the base for a cold beer and warming spa. I couldn’t say that I would recommend Dragons Cave Rafting to anyone after our experience, but if it sounds like your kind of thing and you find yourself in Greymouth then it may be worth a look.
Having had a look around the town centre that morning, we didn’t think that Greymouth was likely to have a terribly happening nightlife, so we opted instead for a quiet night in. Tomorrow morning we leave for Westport.

Fox Glacier:

Leaving Queenstown we took the high pass across to Wanaka, where we hoped to have a good view of the beautiful lake. Unfortunately due to the cloud cover, the lake was rather obscured, so we continued instead to Puzzling World. Situated close to the town of Wanaka, Puzzling World is an attraction loaded with optical illusion rooms, holograms and a gigantic two level outdoor maze. The illusions are amazing and the maze is very challenging, so much so that I am afraid to say that we gave up halfway! With our brains and legs having been given a good workout, we got back into the trusty camper and continued our journey.
Once again the beauty of New Zealand delayed our progress as the weather had cleared and we were treated to a fantastic view of firstly Lake Hawea and then lake Wanaka. Eventually tearing ourselves away from the view, we managed to get the rest of the way to Fox in time to book a Heli hike for the next day.
Rather surprisingly, the temperature during the night was warmer than we had been used to, so we woke up early feeling fresh for our trip up the glacier. At about 9am a bus took us to the heliport where we got kitted out in thick socks and boots and awaited our turn for the short helicopter ride up the glacier. The flight although quite short was stunning, as the pilot took us high up the glacier to where the ice is moving at a rate of 30m per day (you did read correctly 30m!). Eventually we landed on a safer spot and were quickly kitted out in crampons ready to trek across the ice. During the next 2 hours we climbed through ice caves and tunnels, stared into deep crevasses and in my case had a trouser crampon incident. We had a really good guide during the trek; although his judgement as to whether someone could fit through a gap in the ice seemed a little off, when one of the guys from our group got stuck! In fairness after his rescue the guy was still adamant that he would have fitted if he hadn’t got his crampon stuck, we were all just pleased to see him back! In what seemed like no time, our time on the ice was over and we headed back to meet the helicopter for the return trip to base. The experience of walking on such a vast glacier was amazing, but it was very good to get the freezing boots off our feet!
As it is almost impossible to go anywhere in New Zealand, without seeing a postcard showing Mt Cook and Mt Tasman reflected in the crystal clear waters of Lake Matheson, we thought we had better go and have a look. After a snack and coffee at the nearby café we set off around the lake, stopping frequently to marvel at the beautiful reflections. Unfortunately due to a fair amount of cloud cover we were unable to get the full pristine view, but the scenery was still stunning. After what seemed like quite an energetic day we headed back to the camper for a rest and to get packed up for the journey to Greymouth the next day.

Queenstown:

With thirty continual days of activities available to you in Queenstown, you could never describe the town as being dull! When you throw the beautiful Lake Wakatipu with its crystal clear and 90% pure waters and the stunning surrounding Remarkables mountain range in to the mix, it is easy to see why people flock here. With a planned couple of days we had a look through the countless leaflets advertising everything from bungee jumps, canyon swings and sky diving, to jet boat rides and crazy golf! After remembering watching a program where Jeremy Clarkson had a go on the ‘Fly by Wire’ (see photos) I was keen to have a go, so we booked on for later that afternoon. With the morning free we headed into town to have a look at the lake, which is where I saw the 700bhp Kawarau Jet boats. As previous boat trips have left Debs feeling sea sick, she decided to give the hour long trip where the boat spins and rushes down rapids at 50mph a miss. After getting togged up in a poncho and life jacket I got into the boat and we set off. Due to the still waters of the lake the journey was remarkably calm and apart from when we went into a spin or rushed towards an oncoming tree or bridge, it was very difficult to judge the speed. The highlight of the trip was when we rushed down the tributaries of the Shotover River, some of them less than 10cm deep. More than once we could hear the bottom of the boat, make contact with the river bed as we twisted and turned through the narrow streams. One hour and 43kms later, it was all over as arrived back in Queenstown and I went to meet Debs. The shame was that the whole journey had been so smooth that Debs would have probably been alright; oh well maybe next time!
With the morning seemingly having rushed past it was time to go and meet our ride to the ‘Fly by Wire’ site. During the short journey we were given a brief introduction to what we were going to be doing and before we knew it, the moment of truth had arrived. Basically you are strapped into a small fan powered plane/rocket that is attached to a steel cable, winched 200ft up a mountain side and then by means of a throttle and handle bars, you swoop up and down through the valley. If you get the whole thing right, you can reach speeds of 171kph and stay weightless for 3.17seconds at each turn. After 5 minutes you are out of fuel and you slowly swing around the valley until you are lowered on to the platform. It has to be said it was definitely more my type of thing than Debs, she gave it a good go but she didn’t really manage to get to grips with what she was supposed to be doing. Part of the problem is that you are in a laying position and to turn the handlebars at the top of the arc requires quite a lot of strength, which I don’t think the staff really explained to her. Nevertheless with the adrenaline still coursing and our wallets considerably lighter it had been a good day.
Settling for a slower pace the next day we headed straight for the ‘Caddy Shack’ crazy golf course, where we had a hilarious time playing through the 18 holes of beautifully designed obstacles; somewhat unusually for crazy golf I won! After the golf it was straight on to the cable car that would take us to the top of Bob’s peak and the start of the Luge track. Unlike the sledges you see on TV, these are purpose built Go karts that you steer down your choice of scenic or advanced concrete tracks. The luge track has to be some of the best fun you can have, for surprisingly little money. After racing down the tracks several times our turn was over so we contented ourselves with the beautiful views of Lake Wakatipu and the Remarkables mountain range.
It would be very easy to spend ages in Queenstown, but it would also be very easy to spend a huge amount of money. The problem with all of the adrenaline pumping attractions available is that while you are enjoying the high it is very easy to say “just one more go”. With our wallets still intact, it was time to move on, a Heli hike on Fox Glacier beckons.

Dunedin to Milford:

As we set off in the morning our original intention was to spend the night in Te Anau, and then drive the short distance to Milford Sound the next day. Making good time along the snow free roads, we passed through the town of Gore. Gore is the self proclaimed ‘Brown Trout’ capital of the world, as well as the ‘Country and Western’ capital of New Zealand! Much more importantly, the baker sells quite nice sausage rolls! Fighting against the overwhelming urge to spend longer in Gore, we continued our journey towards Te Anau. As we had made really good time we arrived in Te Anau at about 2pm and after a quick phone call to Milford lodge regarding the road conditions and whether they had a campervan site, we decided to continue on. The drive to Milford is extremely scenic, with a brief stop at the beautiful Mirror Lakes being a particular highlight. Trying to resist the urge to keep stopping for photos we eventually made it to Milford Lodge at about 4:30pm, just before it started to get really cold. The lodge was quite nice but the campervan site was to say the least haphazard. We did however have our first close encounter with a Kea (Alpine Parrot), which we fed some bread before we had read the sign telling us not to, oops!
For the first time since we left Christchurch the campervan didn’t actually seem like a good idea as we spent the coldest night we had yet encountered. The freezing temperatures weren’t helped by the fact that all of the electricity at the lodge was via a generator, which was turned off between 11pm and 7am, so our heater didn’t work! After a somewhat fitful night’s sleep we set off to the wharf for a boat trip on Milford Sound. Milford Sound is actually a fjord and not a sound, as it was formed by a glacier and not a river, which was originally thought at the time of naming. Speaking from a purely personal point, I have to say that I think Milford Sound is one of the most overrated tourist attractions in New Zealand. In a country with so much beautiful scenery the sound was rather lost on me, plus it is in the middle of nowhere, with only one road leading in and out. I am sure that many would disagree with me, Debs included, but rather than wasting a day getting there and back, you could spend more time enjoying the easily accessible and just as beautiful mountains and lakes that cover the south island.
With the boat trip over we set off once again bound for Queenstown (New Zealand’s adventure capital). Aside from a slight incident when I may have underestimated how much diesel we had left (we did actually make it to the garage, but it was touch and go!) we arrived safely and checked into yet another Top Ten holiday park.

Oamaru to Dunedin:

After checking with the holiday park office, we were pleased to find out that the road south had been reopened so our road trip was back in business. On the way to Dunedin we stopped at the Moeraki boulders, a collection of almost perfectly spherical rocks. Some of the boulders are huge and we had a good time clambering on, and in one case in, these strange rocks. Seeing even more of the boulders sticking out from the cliff face ready to fall, just adds to the spectacle.
Heading back to our trusty campervan we continued our journey to Dunedin. Making good time, we safely negotiated the city’s one way system and arrived at yet another top ten holiday park. With plenty of supplies on board we made ourselves comfortable and settled in for the night.
Dunedin is New Zealand’s so called ‘Scottish city’. The city has been modelled on Edinburgh, complete with a statue of Robert Burns. The city seems quite nice, but we wouldn’t recommend visiting on a Sunday unless you like the look of closed shops. One of the more notable buildings in the city centre, aside from the towering cathedral, is the beautiful train station. Looking not unlike a Lego castle from the outside, inside you are greeted by beautiful tiled floors and walls, complete with old lanterns and stained glass windows.
Leaving the city behind we headed out to the nearby Otago Peninsula, following the wonderfully scenic road that leads eventually to Taiaroa Head, home of the world’s only mainland albatross colony. We had a brief look around the visitors centre, but decided that the rather steep entrance fee to see nesting albatross was too much for us. After the disappointment of not seeing any penguins in Oamaru, we decided to visit the nearby Yellow Eyed penguin colony. A local farmer, realising that he had a penguin colony on his land, has built a huge labyrinth of hides and has set about protecting their habitat in the hope that their numbers will increase. The entrance fee is once again quite steep, but there is nowhere else in the world where you will get to see these extremely rare penguins close up. We were delighted to see 15 penguins coming in from the sea to rest after days at sea fishing. With the light fading we set off back to Dunedin and our campsite. It had been a thoroughly enjoyable day, but it was time to get some sleep before we left the next morning bound for Milford.

Akaroa to Oamaru:

Leaving the campsite at 10am we headed down along highway one towards Oamaru, where we planned to stop for the night. Passing through the town of Timaru we stopped to have a look around Aigantighe (pronounced egg and tie) art gallery. The gallery is housed within a large Edwardian house, built in 1908 as a retirement home for Scottish born Alexander and Helen Grant. The gallery is well worth a visit, if only to have a look around the house and the interesting sculpture garden. The garden displays works by New Zealand, Zimbabwean and Japanese sculptors, with the Zimbabwean work being our favourite.
On arrival in Oamaru we booked into the very central Top Ten holiday park and then headed into town to get some shopping. Oamaru is a very attractive town with wide streets and a large amount of Victorian era buildings. Our first stop was at the visitor centre, to collect some information about things to do in the surrounding area. Unfortunately while we were in the centre we saw a traffic notice saying that the road heading south to Dunedin (our next destination) was closed due to snow and ice. Enquiring further about the road conditions we were dismayed to learn that many of the southern roads had been closed, our south island tour may have hit a stumbling block! Knowing that there was nothing we could do about the weather we decided on a few things to do while we were in town.
One of the main things we wanted to do was visit the Blue penguin (the smallest breed of penguin) and Yellow Eyed penguin colonies. As according to the visitor centre there had been no sightings of the blue penguins and to see them required us to pay a rather hefty entrance fee, we headed instead to the yellow eyed colony. After waiting in the rain and wind for a while, it became apparent that we were going to be unlucky with the yellow eyes as well. For me at least, the day ended on a high note when we visited ‘The Barrel House’ a whisky maturation store. New Zealand’s whisky is not bad, as I found out during the tour and whisky tasting.
Oamaru is a nice town to spend a few days in, if only to look at the beautiful buildings and have a browse around the very different harbour front shops. Of the shops, ‘Slightly Foxed’ (a second hand bookshop), the wonderfully strange ‘Grainstore Art Gallery’ and the stone masons are well worth a look.